The trip from Berlin to Krakow was not short. It didn’t take too long to get into Poland, but Krakow is a considerable way across the country. As a matter of fact, it is less than 3 hours to the Ukraine border! Though it was a long travel day, my first impressions of Poland, and of Krakow, were very positive. For one, driving across Poland is about like driving across Oklahoma. It is relatively flat, covered in fields of wheat, corn, and other grains, and there are lots of small towns throughout the countryside. Krakow struck me right away as a lively, culturally thriving city that was begging to be explored. Bill and the group settled into a hostel near the center of Old Town Krakow and did a brief orientation tour to help us get our bearings. Within a few minutes we were in the heart of the main Market Square at Cloth Hall. This active and energetic market and trading hall is home to every type of souvenir one could want. Also within the square was the ancient St. Mary’s Basilica and the Old Town Hall. These buildings in Old Town are all original and date back to medieval times. Our group then settled in for a traditional Polish meal (I had meat-stuffed pirogues and a mushroom soup) before getting some sleep.
An early start the next morning got us on our way to the Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial and Museum for a guided tour and exploration. This was the largest concentration camp complex in the Third Reich and the scene of more murders than anywhere else during the Holocaust. I think we were ready for a difficult day filled with emotion, but it is still utterly indescribable how walking the grounds of this site affect a person. One element that makes the Auschwitz location powerful is the fact that all of the buildings of the complex are original (other than the rooves) and still stand now as they did in the 1940’s when filled with victims of the Holocaust. Another factor is the sheer scale of the camp. It is difficult to see where the camp begins and where it ends. The long rows of concrete posts and electrified barbed wire seem to continue infinitely into the distance. As our group wound through the camp and the buildings filled with exhibits and artifacts, the weight of the story got heavier and heavier. By the time one walks through the warehouse filled with mountains of human hair (piles 8-10 feet high and 50 feet long I estimate), pairs of shoes, eyeglasses, luggage, etc. that remained after the camp was liberated it gets a little harder to breathe. The breath doesn’t seem to come at all when at the end of the tour you are led into the underground gas chamber and through the crematorium. The enormity of it all is hard to put into words. The locals we spoke to said everyone should visit the site, but most never want to do it again. A quick visit to nearby Birkenau kept the mood somber, though this site was different. It was almost entirely destroyed at the end of World War II so all that remains are a few full structures, the fences, and the foundations and chimneys of each barracks unit. The chimneys seem to stand at attention all across the grounds of the camp in an eerie image. Needless to say, many are speechless after this tour and need time to decompress.
For the rest of the day, I explored Old Town Krakow beginning with the Rynek Underground Museum which is literally underneath the Market Square and Cloth Hall. It is an excavated site that uses lasers, holograms, immersive exhibits, and touchscreen interactives to give visitors a real feel of what medieval Poland was like. What an amazing experience this was! I was so impressed by the way the museum was set up. At one point you are underneath a fountain in the square and can look up through the water at the spires of St. Mary’s Basilica! I then left the museum to go explore the basilica across the square. I love cathedrals and this one did not let me down! The stunning gothic design and ornate carvings on the interior take your breath away. I also learned that every hour, on the hour, a live trumpeter plays from the bell tower, all day, everyday! What a cool and unique tradition. There is a lot of history behind the tradition, but that is another story for another time. From there I walked the narrow streets toward the most prominent structure in the city, Wawel Castle. It is situated on a hilltop overlooking the Vistula River and provides a commanding presence for the city. Walking up the entrance road through the ramparts and into the courtyard takes you back to a different time! The magnificent Wawel Cathedral sits near the royal residences and provides a stunning visual. The whole complex overlooks the river far down below and reminds one of the power of rivers and location throughout history.
Lastly tonight was a traditional Polish dinner of meat-stuffed cabbage with mashed potatoes. It was amazing, as expected! Our group had a nice dinner together and it even extended late into the evening with great conversation and great fellowship. What a great group I am traveling with! I still can’t believe I’m hanging out in Krakow, Poland and taking in the culture and ambiance. What a great life I live!
Bill and Jeff's Historical Travel Blog 