Another morning of waking up to an open window with no need for screens, the sounds of footsteps and traffic on cobblestones, and the realization that I am still exploring amazing European cities! My work began today by heading across the river to the meeting point for a walking tour of Prague Castle. The castle complex sits high on a hilltop overlooking the city and the river below. The term “castle” didn’t fully represent what I expected in my mind, though the place is certainly grand. It is more of a vast palace with fortifications and a massive gothic church in its center, not a medieval castle like one’s mind conjures up when hearing the word. The history of this palace dates back centuries to the time of the Hapsburg Dynasty of Austria-Hungary that dominated this region of Europe. Our guide talked us through the evolution of the complex and how a real turning point for Prague was when it became the capital of the Holy Roman Empire under Emperor Charles IV in the 14th Century. This influx of wealth and influence to the city made it the third largest city in the world at the time, only trailing Rome and Constantinople. The impressive castle complex is home to the seat of government even today in the Czech Republic and houses the President, the Foreign Ministry, and Parliament. We arrived in time to watch one of the hourly “changing of the guards” that takes place outside the main palace and enjoyed the pomp and pageantry of the whole affair. Where the guards stand at attention for an hour at their posts outside the gates, there is a small barricade that keeps visitors from being able to touch the soldiers. Apparently this is a relatively new creation and came at the request of the guards themselves. They were complaining of too many women kissing them while they stood there, trying to make them move or change expressions! Sounds like a rough deal!
We next went through security and entered the inner courtyard where the cathedral stands in the center. We were told that there were no changing of the guard ceremonies yesterday due to an important visitor to the complex. The new archbishop was on site to bless the cathedral and as we entered the interior of the gothic church, we could still smell the aroma of incense from yesterday’s ceremony and see a haze lingering high up in the rafters. It was a special experience. I was able to capture some images inside and outside and hope the do the site justice. I know I’ve said it before, but I love cathedrals! The tour continued to a lookout point over the ramparts and fortified walls and provided a great view of the river below and the city of Prague. It is such a beautiful city with the endless array of spires and domes, red roofs, and white stone structures. It just doesn’t get old.
The tour wrapped up there and after strolling around a bit and taking in the palace some more, I walked a ways to Letna Park to get a peek at the giant metronome that stands high on a hilltop and stroll through the park. The metronome sits atop a giant stone pedestal that was once the base for the world’s largest statue of Josef Stalin, but after the Czech people destroyed the statue they needed something to replace it with. Though the metronome is currently not functioning, it is a unique piece of city art. I grabbed a small lunch at a biergarten in the park then headed back downhill toward Old Town. Our group had an evening dinner planned, so in the meantime I took time to soak in the atmosphere of Prague, did a little shopping, and walked the cobblestone streets in awe of the place.
A fun traditional Czech folklore dinner was on tap for the evening and our group was picked up and taken to the site. The event took place in a traditional wooden longhouse-type structure and certainly put one’s mind back to a simpler time. The 4-course meal (vegetable soup, cabbage salad, pork steak, a chicken leg, beef steak, mashed and roasted potatoes and an apple strudel) was served throughout the night as traditional Czech music, song, and dance kept everyone entertained. I loved everything about the experience and appreciated the chance to take it all in. There were even a couple of times when I was selected by the performers to learn traditional Czech dance on stage. This is usually the stuff my nightmares are made of, but it was very enjoyable and made the evening even more special! What a great way to end our time in Prague. I sure hope this isn’t my last time in this amazing city!
Bill and Jeff's Historical Travel Blog 